Great Tours - Low Impact - Tour Samana with Terry

My mom came to visit recently so I had a chance to do lots of “touristy” things while she was here. One great discovery we made was Tour Samaná with Terry – operated by Terry Bandi, an American expat living in Samaná. We went on his “Low Impact” tour so my mom (and I) could learn more about Dominican customs and culture.


Terry showing the group a tropical flower in Dominican Republic

The tour started out in Samaná, so we drove over to meet the bus and some folks arriving on the Royal Caribbean cruise. Terry works closely with cruise travelers and visitors to the all-inclusive resorts to provide them with a tour alternative that educates while you enjoy the region’s natural attractions like El Limón waterfall or some of the remote beaches on the Samaná Peninsula.



View of Samaná Bay from Terry's family land, Dominican Republic

We set out from Samaná in our open air tour bus and headed north to see land Terry’s family owns in the countryside. The view was breathtaking. Samana Bay stretched from Cayo Levantado in the east almost to the western edge of Los Haitises National Park across the bay. More interesting than the view, though, was the array of tropical fruits growing on the steep hill slope.

Terry shared papaya picked in front of our eyes from a tall, spindly tree. We tasted tamarind by sucking the brown meat off big seeds pushed out of the little, round, green balls the neighbor kids passed around the group. Little did we know, this was just the beginning of a very flavorful day! 


Flower of a banana tree near Cascada Lulu, Samaná Peninsula

After exploring Terry’s land, we went next door to visit his neighbors and see how a typical Dominican home is constructed. He explained how they used the exterior of a royal coconut palm tree trunk to craft siding to add to the concrete block construction. He also explained how his neighbors rarely spent time inside the living space of their house since most Dominicans prefer to pass the time outside in the shade or working. 

Terry explaining Dominican construction from palm trees

 After the visit overlooking the bay, we climbed back in the tour bus for a quick stop at a local shop where we could watch cigars being rolled from Dominican tobacco. I got my first introduction to a new Dominican treat – cacao (the starting point for cocoa) that had been roasted and formed into a small, hard, dark-brown cake. The cake can be grated to make cocoa powder which you sweeten with sugar. Terry mentioned that he likes to grate it into his coffee maker when he brews his coffee – I was sold!

Cacao growing in trees near Samaná, Dominican Republic

After our shopping excursion, we headed back to Samaná to catch the road to Playa El Valle. This remote beach at the end of a rough, dirt road was our lunch destination. More Dominican flavors were queued up for our dining enjoyment. At a small beach shack at the west end of the beach, we were treated to a buffet of typical Dominican fare – fresh-caught fish, chicken, tostones – thick, soft, fried plantain chips, rice, salad with fresh tomatoes, and habituale – the local soupy beans. For dessert we were offered more local flavor – coconut and pineapple with hot, locally grown and roasted coffee. I was ready for a nap on the beach.


Waves crashing on Playa El Valle, Dominican Republic

After a little rest and a walk on the sand, we headed back to a small waterfall accessed with the help of local residents who joined Terry in pointing out plants of interest like mahogany and mango trees, different types of plantain and banana trees, mimosa and more. When we got to the falls at the end of the trail Terry was the first one in the water. His enthusiasm here and during the entire tour made the trip a delight.

Terry in the waterfalls, Samaná Peninsula, Dominican Republic

We wrapped up the visit to the waterfalls with a stop at a stand run by local farmers. Terry was able to show us a number of additional fruits and vegetables that Dominicans use daily. The one I found most interesting was the fresh cacao pod. Yes – it’s all about the chocolate for me!

Terry cracked the cacao pod open and scooped out some of the fresh cacao berries that appeared to be wrapped in downy cotton. With Terry’s encouragement, we tossed the berries in our mouth and sucked on them – discovering as we did that the berries were actually moist and sweet. They weren’t anything like chocolate but Terry also explained the process of making chocolate from these berries. 

Fresh cacao berries to taste

I won’t spoil the tour for you – and I won’t promise that you’ll have the exact tour we did because Terry is a master of spontaneity. He customizes the tour for his guests and uses whatever material his friends and the landscape provide. Regardless of what you encounter yourself on a tour with Terry, though, it will be time well spent.

You can check out Terry’s upcoming tours at Tour Samana with Terry.

Great Food - The Beach, Playa Coson

Although you wouldn’t know it from the sign on the road, tucked back in the palm trees near the end of Playa Coson is a fabulous gourmet restaurant just waiting to be discovered. The Beach is only open to the public for lunch. The rest of the time, it’s the private restaurant for the Peninsula House hotel – a luxury boutique hotel that was recently awarded #2 Best Resort in the Caribbean by Conde Nast traveler readers.

The entrance to The Beach from Playa Coson, Dominican Republic

Don’t let the pedigree deter you, though. The Beach is an unassuming locale with delightful service and tasty fare that’s worth every dollar. The menu changes daily and features an array of fresh fish, meats and local fruits and vegetables. The day I visited, I was offered six first courses and six main courses and more dessert options than I could imagine.


Playa Coson, in front of The Beach, Dominican Republic

The first offering was toasted slivers of fresh coconut with a touch of salt that served as the perfect palate teaser for lunch. For my main course, I chose a local specialty, camarones con salsa chinola, jumbo shrimp atop a buttery sauce infused with the sweet tangy addition of passionfruit. My dining companion had been craving avocado and selected a salad featuring shrimp and avocado. When it arrived, it was a tower of densely packed sweet shrimp and fresh avocado with the simple additions of lime and parsley.

Palm Trees at The Beach, Playa Coson

Our dishes were simple but the use of fresh, local ingredients made them outstanding. The setting, on the porch of a small Caribbean-style cottage, added to the experience. The waves of the ocean lapped against the white sand beach of Playa Coson as the palm trees shaded the restaurant and helped keep the sunshine from heating things up too much.

View of The Beach, Playa Coson, Dominican Republic

Several of the desserts caught my eye but my entree was so generous more food was out of the question.  The call of the beach beckoned us to walk off the stupor of wine and lunch but for those less motivated, beach chairs were available outside the front gate. It’s a shame we can’t all enjoy the restaurant for dinner but it’s worth a trip down the road to have lunch at The Beach.

What to Do – Buy Fish at Fishermen’s Village

Like most coastal communities in the Dominican Republic, Las Terrenas has plenty of fishermen and a long history of gathering the bounty of the sea for sustenance. Las Terrenas invokes that history today on the beach just west of the old fisherman’s shacks. Those shacks have been converted to gourmet restaurants and lounges with low lighting and jazzy melodies drifting from the decks overlooking the water. Further west, though, the tradition of the daily local catch continues as the boats pull up each day, just before lunch, with their assortment of fish and shellfish to sell to locals, tourists and restaurateurs.

Fishermen's Village - Las Terrenas, Dominican Republic

Driving down the beachfront road west of Las Terrenas toward Playa Las Ballenas, you can’t miss the activity of the fishermen that starts each morning around 10:00am. The first boats return from the ocean between 10 and 11 a.m. to begin turning piles of fresh fish into dollars. 

Vendors at Fishermen's Village, Las Terrenas

They come loaded with lobster, crab, and a variety of fish. The most popular fish by far are the whole mahi-mahi or dorado, as they are known locally. You generally will need to buy a whole fish but it’s possible to find a seller who will dole out one side of the fish if you ask.

Carribean lobster, Red Snapper and Mahi-Mahi for sale

When I go, I usually buy a whole mahi-mahi for about $4/lb. I have it filleted by one of the men wielding sharp knives and heavy mallets. The mallet provides the power needed to deftly and precisely slice off fins, tails and the head of the large fish. A job well-done deserves an additional tip of a dollar or two and a sincere thanks for saving me the trouble of cleaning the fish.

Cleaning and filleting the fish in Las Terrenas, Dominican Republic



I also buy lobster and shrimp at the fishermen’s market.  The lobster is Caribbean lobster and lacks the large, meaty front claws. I usually grill the lobster and eat only the tail – it’s easy to become complacent about picking all the little morsels from the shells when you only pay four to six dollars a pound for the sweet tasting delicacy. Most lobsters at the market are small so I usually get one and a half per person to be sure I have enough. If I have leftovers, I mix them with some local avocado for a lobster salad lunch the following day.



Shellfish at Fishermen's Village, Dominican Republic



You can also buy local clams and oysters along with calamari and squid. So far, my forays have been fish – dorado and capitan – and lobster and shrimp. You can often find piles of red snapper, called chillo, which are tasty baked, grilled or fried whole. On the weekends, the assortment grows and the crowds grow too. During the week, there may be only a few fishermen selling their wares. Once the crowds slow at the beach, the vendors pack up the remaining haul and head to the restaurants so don’t wait too long to get your shopping done.