Playa El Limón

Looking for a wide, sunny beach with turquoise blue water, rolling waves and complete solitude? There’s a good chance you’ll find all that and more at Playa El Limón, just east of La Barbacoa between Las Terrenas and El Limón. Playa El Limón may get a few visitors from time to time but you can easily find a stretch of beach to claim for yourself. Just be sure to bring a cooler with your drinks and snacks since there are no services at the beach. 

Playa El Limon looking east

Playa El Limón is a cove surrounding by pasture and farm land. There is only one development slowly being built by the road down to the beach but the majority of land beyond the beach is home to cattle and coconut trees. At the east end of the beach, there is a river that has lots of small crabs and fish. You may find some interesting shells there and you’ll sometimes find locals gathering crabs for food.

The river is on the east end of the beach on the right side of this view.

The coconut trees are set back from the sand and you may have to scout a little bit to find a patch of shade. On the east end of the beach, you will find a grassy stretch where you can unpack your things and spread out under the palm fronds. You can walk there from the main road or pass through the gate on your right before the end of the road to the beach and drive your car through a pasture to park in the shade.


The cayo off the beach at Playa El Limon

The waves at Playa El Limón can be strong but most of the time they are great for floating along the shore. There is a small cayo (island) off the coast and you will occasionally see fishermen in their small motorboats making their way around the island as they fish. The beach is long and you may find a few shells if you walk the distance out to the sandy end to the west. Usually, a breeze blows along Playa El Limón so you don’t have to worry about bugs. I never experienced any sand fleas on this beach either – despite the remoteness of the beach.

Playa El Limon looking west

The only drawback you will sometimes encounter at Playa El Limón is plastic trash. The tidal patterns in the area cause bottles and bags to wash onto the beaches. Without a hotel or homes to monitor the trash and keep the beach clean, you may have to wander a little to find a place free of litter. In addition, you will need to pack your trash out since there are no facilities on the beach for garbage.

A Tale of Two Whale Tours

I pride myself on being a savvy traveler who finds the best restaurants, hotels and attractions with a little help from the internet and local connections. So I knew Kim Beddall was the undisputed leader in whale tours in Samana. But, when faced with organizing a trip to Samana with visitors, I decided to jump in with a large, arranged tour that included whale watching with another company and an afternoon at Cayo Levantado afterwards. I’ve learned my lesson…

The first whale tour, courtesy of Bahia Cruise, turned out to be a crowded affair with 40 people in a motor catamaran on benches facing forward. Heading out to sea, the waves crashed over the side of the boat and proceeded to drench people and gear alike. I had brought a nice digital camera in hopes of getting some footage but I abandoned that plan as the crew passed out raincoats in a vain attempt to help curtail the water.

Our captain did a fine job tracking down whales in the Bay and soon, the boat was positioned within a few feet of a female whale and her baby. Unfortunately, no one provided any information about the whales or what we were seeing. The tour consisted of about twenty minutes of racing after the whales and trying to capture glimpses of the whales through a crowded line of vision. Not only did the waves make viewing difficult, but the packed boat and the low position in the water made photography quite challenging.

The ride back to Cay Levantado and the afternoon on the beach improved the day considerably. Our package included a buffet lunch and comfortable accommodations under the palm trees. A stroll on the beach yielded a variety of stunning views of Samana and the Bay and plenty of shoreline for a refreshing dip in the crystal blue water.  Refreshments were easy to find and waiters wandered between the beach chairs all afternoon making sure everyone had cold drinks. Our boat returned us to the port in Samana around 4pm and I felt the entire day had been enjoyable but not spectacular.

Fast forward two weeks to a morning on the water with Kim Beddall and her crew. You can read more about the day in my blog Whale Watching with Kim Beddall because the tour with Kim deserves its own blog. I’ll outline the key differences here, though, so you can understand the benefits of a tour with Kim.

First, the boat Kim uses is much better for viewing and photographing. With an upper deck and benches running parallel the sides of the boat, I found it much easier to get a good view of the action. Kim also provided a running commentary of the whales’ behavior and helped make sure everyone could see by making sure the people in the front row stayed seated so the people behind them had a view too.

Second, Kim shared interesting information about the whales and the other wildlife we encountered along the journey in and out of the bay. She gave the basics about humpback whales and she also explained the interactions of the whales we encountered during our tour. Kim’s crew passed around models and photos of humpback whales and Kim provided a running dialogue in Spanish and English. She also pointed out different varieties of birds along the way and diverted the tour a few minutes while we watched bottlenose dolphins frolic alongside the boat.

Finally, Kim stayed with the whales long enough to allow plenty of photography and questions. I enjoy learning new things when I travel and this experience was very educational. Unfortunately, I left my camera at home because of my prior experience trying unsuccessfully to get photos. Now, I want to head out with Kim again so I can document some of the amazing things I saw. To read more about a tour you must try if you are visiting the Samana Peninsula mid-January through the end of March, check out my blog about Kim’s tour. Take it from me – other tours will just be a disappointment.

A photo note: I make every effort to include photos in my blogs but in this case, I failed. I didn’t get good photos from the first tour because of the conditions and I left my camera behind (when photos abounded) because I didn’t think I would be able to get any good shots. Suffice it to say – lesson learned and always take your camera!

Great Food and a Great Location – Mojitos Restaurant – Bar and Lounge

Owned by two Cuban brothers, Mojitos Restaurant may be the only place on the Samaná Peninsula where the namesake drink actually fits the bill. The mint is fresh and the balance of lime and sugar is just right. Plus, you can enjoy a twist on the original. The passion fruit or chinola mojito is a tangy diversion from the norm that goes down quickly on a hot day.

Mojitos Restaurant, Las Terrenas, Dominican Republic

The additional good news is that you can get food as good as the drinks at Mojitos if you choose carefully and are willing to try some new dishes. One of my favorite discoveries at Mojitos is tostone rellenos with shrimp or beef in a spicy sauce. The sauce-drenched meat is loaded into small cups made of ripe plantains that have been lightly fried into form. Three rellenos per serving is enough for two people to share if you are ordering a few tapas to go with your drinks.

Another appetizer done well by the cooks at Mojitos is the fried fish pieces. They usually use mahi-mahi, locally known as dorado for the fish and accompany it with a side of garlicky tartar sauce. You may like it enough you have to ask for more – and they will be happy to oblige.



View of Mojitos from Las Terrenas Beach, Dominican Republic

My favorite main dish is the classic Samana specialty – mero con salsa de coco. The local version of grouper is lightly braised in coconut milk tinted with tomato. Served with rice, the dish is plenty to split if you’ve already had a few appetizers before dinner.  Of course, once you taste it, you may not want to share.

The only disappointing meal I’ve had at Mojitos was when I ordered what should have been a no-brainer for the brothers – the Cuban sandwich. The flaw was the deviation from their usual authenticity. Instead of being served on a Cuban-style bread and garnished with pickles, the sandwich arrived with only ham, pork, cheese and lettuce on a dry baguette. It was simply too underwhelming to be enjoyable and at a price close to equal the mero, it simply didn’t stack up.

Great view of the ocean from the deck at Mojitos Restaurant

The service can be slow – like any restaurant in the Dominican Republic – but if one of the brothers is on-site, expect a friendly greeting and plenty of attention.  Well-situated at the east end of Playa Las Terrenas next to Punta Popy, Mojitos is a great break from the beach where you can enjoy tasty Cuban food and drink. Plus, you can catch a great sunset if you linger long enough.

Great Tours - Low Impact - Tour Samana with Terry

My mom came to visit recently so I had a chance to do lots of “touristy” things while she was here. One great discovery we made was Tour Samaná with Terry – operated by Terry Bandi, an American expat living in Samaná. We went on his “Low Impact” tour so my mom (and I) could learn more about Dominican customs and culture.


Terry showing the group a tropical flower in Dominican Republic

The tour started out in Samaná, so we drove over to meet the bus and some folks arriving on the Royal Caribbean cruise. Terry works closely with cruise travelers and visitors to the all-inclusive resorts to provide them with a tour alternative that educates while you enjoy the region’s natural attractions like El Limón waterfall or some of the remote beaches on the Samaná Peninsula.



View of Samaná Bay from Terry's family land, Dominican Republic

We set out from Samaná in our open air tour bus and headed north to see land Terry’s family owns in the countryside. The view was breathtaking. Samana Bay stretched from Cayo Levantado in the east almost to the western edge of Los Haitises National Park across the bay. More interesting than the view, though, was the array of tropical fruits growing on the steep hill slope.

Terry shared papaya picked in front of our eyes from a tall, spindly tree. We tasted tamarind by sucking the brown meat off big seeds pushed out of the little, round, green balls the neighbor kids passed around the group. Little did we know, this was just the beginning of a very flavorful day! 


Flower of a banana tree near Cascada Lulu, Samaná Peninsula

After exploring Terry’s land, we went next door to visit his neighbors and see how a typical Dominican home is constructed. He explained how they used the exterior of a royal coconut palm tree trunk to craft siding to add to the concrete block construction. He also explained how his neighbors rarely spent time inside the living space of their house since most Dominicans prefer to pass the time outside in the shade or working. 

Terry explaining Dominican construction from palm trees

 After the visit overlooking the bay, we climbed back in the tour bus for a quick stop at a local shop where we could watch cigars being rolled from Dominican tobacco. I got my first introduction to a new Dominican treat – cacao (the starting point for cocoa) that had been roasted and formed into a small, hard, dark-brown cake. The cake can be grated to make cocoa powder which you sweeten with sugar. Terry mentioned that he likes to grate it into his coffee maker when he brews his coffee – I was sold!

Cacao growing in trees near Samaná, Dominican Republic

After our shopping excursion, we headed back to Samaná to catch the road to Playa El Valle. This remote beach at the end of a rough, dirt road was our lunch destination. More Dominican flavors were queued up for our dining enjoyment. At a small beach shack at the west end of the beach, we were treated to a buffet of typical Dominican fare – fresh-caught fish, chicken, tostones – thick, soft, fried plantain chips, rice, salad with fresh tomatoes, and habituale – the local soupy beans. For dessert we were offered more local flavor – coconut and pineapple with hot, locally grown and roasted coffee. I was ready for a nap on the beach.


Waves crashing on Playa El Valle, Dominican Republic

After a little rest and a walk on the sand, we headed back to a small waterfall accessed with the help of local residents who joined Terry in pointing out plants of interest like mahogany and mango trees, different types of plantain and banana trees, mimosa and more. When we got to the falls at the end of the trail Terry was the first one in the water. His enthusiasm here and during the entire tour made the trip a delight.

Terry in the waterfalls, Samaná Peninsula, Dominican Republic

We wrapped up the visit to the waterfalls with a stop at a stand run by local farmers. Terry was able to show us a number of additional fruits and vegetables that Dominicans use daily. The one I found most interesting was the fresh cacao pod. Yes – it’s all about the chocolate for me!

Terry cracked the cacao pod open and scooped out some of the fresh cacao berries that appeared to be wrapped in downy cotton. With Terry’s encouragement, we tossed the berries in our mouth and sucked on them – discovering as we did that the berries were actually moist and sweet. They weren’t anything like chocolate but Terry also explained the process of making chocolate from these berries. 

Fresh cacao berries to taste

I won’t spoil the tour for you – and I won’t promise that you’ll have the exact tour we did because Terry is a master of spontaneity. He customizes the tour for his guests and uses whatever material his friends and the landscape provide. Regardless of what you encounter yourself on a tour with Terry, though, it will be time well spent.

You can check out Terry’s upcoming tours at Tour Samana with Terry.

Great Food - The Beach, Playa Coson

Although you wouldn’t know it from the sign on the road, tucked back in the palm trees near the end of Playa Coson is a fabulous gourmet restaurant just waiting to be discovered. The Beach is only open to the public for lunch. The rest of the time, it’s the private restaurant for the Peninsula House hotel – a luxury boutique hotel that was recently awarded #2 Best Resort in the Caribbean by Conde Nast traveler readers.

The entrance to The Beach from Playa Coson, Dominican Republic

Don’t let the pedigree deter you, though. The Beach is an unassuming locale with delightful service and tasty fare that’s worth every dollar. The menu changes daily and features an array of fresh fish, meats and local fruits and vegetables. The day I visited, I was offered six first courses and six main courses and more dessert options than I could imagine.


Playa Coson, in front of The Beach, Dominican Republic

The first offering was toasted slivers of fresh coconut with a touch of salt that served as the perfect palate teaser for lunch. For my main course, I chose a local specialty, camarones con salsa chinola, jumbo shrimp atop a buttery sauce infused with the sweet tangy addition of passionfruit. My dining companion had been craving avocado and selected a salad featuring shrimp and avocado. When it arrived, it was a tower of densely packed sweet shrimp and fresh avocado with the simple additions of lime and parsley.

Palm Trees at The Beach, Playa Coson

Our dishes were simple but the use of fresh, local ingredients made them outstanding. The setting, on the porch of a small Caribbean-style cottage, added to the experience. The waves of the ocean lapped against the white sand beach of Playa Coson as the palm trees shaded the restaurant and helped keep the sunshine from heating things up too much.

View of The Beach, Playa Coson, Dominican Republic

Several of the desserts caught my eye but my entree was so generous more food was out of the question.  The call of the beach beckoned us to walk off the stupor of wine and lunch but for those less motivated, beach chairs were available outside the front gate. It’s a shame we can’t all enjoy the restaurant for dinner but it’s worth a trip down the road to have lunch at The Beach.

What to Do – Buy Fish at Fishermen’s Village

Like most coastal communities in the Dominican Republic, Las Terrenas has plenty of fishermen and a long history of gathering the bounty of the sea for sustenance. Las Terrenas invokes that history today on the beach just west of the old fisherman’s shacks. Those shacks have been converted to gourmet restaurants and lounges with low lighting and jazzy melodies drifting from the decks overlooking the water. Further west, though, the tradition of the daily local catch continues as the boats pull up each day, just before lunch, with their assortment of fish and shellfish to sell to locals, tourists and restaurateurs.

Fishermen's Village - Las Terrenas, Dominican Republic

Driving down the beachfront road west of Las Terrenas toward Playa Las Ballenas, you can’t miss the activity of the fishermen that starts each morning around 10:00am. The first boats return from the ocean between 10 and 11 a.m. to begin turning piles of fresh fish into dollars. 

Vendors at Fishermen's Village, Las Terrenas

They come loaded with lobster, crab, and a variety of fish. The most popular fish by far are the whole mahi-mahi or dorado, as they are known locally. You generally will need to buy a whole fish but it’s possible to find a seller who will dole out one side of the fish if you ask.

Carribean lobster, Red Snapper and Mahi-Mahi for sale

When I go, I usually buy a whole mahi-mahi for about $4/lb. I have it filleted by one of the men wielding sharp knives and heavy mallets. The mallet provides the power needed to deftly and precisely slice off fins, tails and the head of the large fish. A job well-done deserves an additional tip of a dollar or two and a sincere thanks for saving me the trouble of cleaning the fish.

Cleaning and filleting the fish in Las Terrenas, Dominican Republic



I also buy lobster and shrimp at the fishermen’s market.  The lobster is Caribbean lobster and lacks the large, meaty front claws. I usually grill the lobster and eat only the tail – it’s easy to become complacent about picking all the little morsels from the shells when you only pay four to six dollars a pound for the sweet tasting delicacy. Most lobsters at the market are small so I usually get one and a half per person to be sure I have enough. If I have leftovers, I mix them with some local avocado for a lobster salad lunch the following day.



Shellfish at Fishermen's Village, Dominican Republic



You can also buy local clams and oysters along with calamari and squid. So far, my forays have been fish – dorado and capitan – and lobster and shrimp. You can often find piles of red snapper, called chillo, which are tasty baked, grilled or fried whole. On the weekends, the assortment grows and the crowds grow too. During the week, there may be only a few fishermen selling their wares. Once the crowds slow at the beach, the vendors pack up the remaining haul and head to the restaurants so don’t wait too long to get your shopping done.

Great Beaches - Playa Coson, Las Terrenas

Looking for a white sand beach with turquoise blue water, plenty of shady palm trees and only the occasional fellow beach comber? Venture just 20 minutes from downtown Las Terrenas and to find what you’re seeking at Playa Coson.



Palm trees on Playa Coson, Dominican Republic

Playa Coson is the furthest west beach along a string of gorgeous waterfront in the Las Terrenas area and arguably the most spectacular. The primary developments along the beach include two large residential areas on the eastern end and some hotels to the west. In between is an expanse of white sand that begs you to bring along your beach chair and cooler and relax for a day in the waves.

The first time I visited Playa Coson was mid-week in January and like so many Dominican beaches, it was relatively empty. The sky was patchy blue and a breeze was blowing off the water – an ideal day to savor a bit of sand and sun. Set slightly off the beaten path, Playa Coson tends to be frequented by the neighbors who live there and tourists renting the luxurious villas available for rent along the waterfront. The “crowds” are limited because you need transportation to arrive at Coson from downtown Las Terrenas.


Wide, secluded beaches along Playa Coson

One gem I discovered on my visit to Playa Coson was Restaurant Luis, a beach front assemblage of plywood tables and plastic chairs that create the dining room of a great seafood BBQ place. Lunch is an offering of the fresh catch of the day. Mahi-mahi, shrimp, lobster and octopus often make the list. The meals are accompanied by the usual Dominican offerings of tostones, French fries, rice, and cabbage salad. The fries are freshly cut and golden brown – the perfect complement to a piece of grilled mahi-mahi.



Casual atmosphere at Restaurant Luis, Playa Coson



Restaurant Luis has occupied a number of spaces along Playa Coson over the years. They park their trailed and pitch their tents on vacant land along the shoreline. When the property sells, as often happens in this part of the Dominican Republic, they pull up stakes and head to the next stretch of open beachfront where they can hang out their shingle. The best bet is to watch for Luis’ signs along the road to Playa Coson – or ask a local wandering along the beach.

Another option I plan to try is The Beach restaurant at The Peninsula House hotel. The Peninsula House is a small, luxury boutique hotel that put down roots under the palm trees on Playa Coson in 2008. Rated number one hotel in the Conde Nast Reader’s Choice awards, the Peninsula House opens the doors of its restaurant to the public for lunch in an idyllic setting. I’m waiting for the perfect excuse to go – maybe out of town guests this winter will help me justify the visit.

Fishing boat in the waves off Playa Coson, Dominican Republic

Until then, though, it’s easy to imagine enjoying Playa Coson with just a cooler, some beach towels and a good book. Access is straightforward with a few sandy paths that lead right to the water from the main road.  Expect this destination to become more popular though, as a new road is completed along the north coast of the Samaná peninsula from El Catey airport in Samaná. Get here soon and you can still experience all the charm of a stunning Caribbean beach far from the crowds of Punta Popy in Las Terrenas.

History Lessons in Samana: The Shipwreck Museum

I finally made some headway seeing the real “sites” of Samaná last week when Ed and I headed over to the Shipwreck Museum in Santa Bárbara de Samaná. We’d driven by the tell-tale anchor painted on the retaining wall of the building many times. Several times, I had failed to notice the canon mounted on the patio at the top of the stairs in front of the museum. Not this time!

Shipwreck Museum, Santa Barbara de Samana, Dominican Republic

The museum opened last year and the displays are modern and well maintained. A tour guide greeted me right as I entered. “Do you want a tour?” she asked, rather abruptly. I replied that I did and she replied, just as abruptly, that the cost was $5US. The museum had been recommended by a friend so I figured the tour would be worth the price and obligingly handed over my pesos since we don’t carry dollars.

After the rocky start, our tour guide’s manner became friendlier. She led us through the museum explaining all the artifacts from the shipwreck as well telling the story of the ship itself. The museum has replicas of the ship and some of the items found by Deep Blue Marine, Inc. during the recovery. On the whole, though, I was pleasantly surprised by the array of items on display that were actually recovered from the dive site. She explained the different types of cannonballs and artillery including the second canon on display in the museum. The museum also has information on life aboard the ship – clearly life was uncomfortable and cramped for most of the crew.

Cannon from the shipwreck of the French warship, Le Scipion

Deep Blue Marine, Inc. has a conservation area in the museum where you can see pieces recovered from the wreck being restored. The new museum director, Roxanne, enthusiastically urged me to investigate some of the pieces and reached right into the huge tank to lift out a wooden pulley that was curing in the freshwater. You could feel the sponginess of the wood from the years it spent on the ocean floor. Eventually, the wood would recover its hardness in the fresh water bath.

As the tour drew to a close, Roxanne told us a couple of secrets our tour guide hadn’t shared. First, the price of the tour includes a souvenir from the museum – kids would love that! Second, the ticket also includes a beverage at the tapas restaurant next door. Since I had more questions for Roxanne, she came over to the tapas restaurant too. After sharing tales of Samana and her first week in the Dominican Republic, Roxanne headed back to the museum. I chose to try out the tapas because I’d noticed the restaurant before and wanted to see if the food was good.

View of Samana Bay, Dominican Republic, from Taberna Mediterranea Tapas and Vinos

It was. The tapas menu was extensive but not yet translated into English. With the help of the owner, Nina Domingeuz, and my passable-but-not-brilliant Spanish, I chose a hot meat dish and a cold seafood tapa of conch and octopus. Neither was quite what I expected – the meatballs weren’t quite the “chunks of meat” I was craving but the sauce was tangy with a hint of spice and went great with the crusty slices of bread accompanying the dishes. At a table nearby, two men shared a giant platter of grilled meats that I will have to try on my next visit. You can order a mix of seafood and meats or just seafood if you prefer. 

Nina Dominquez, owner of Taberna Mediterranea and Samana Living blogger, Yana

If your travels take you to Samaná, this is a nice way to spend a leisurely afternoon and learn a little about life on the Caribbean sea in the 18^th century.

Great Food - Ana's Pan de Coco

If you have an abiding appreciation for homemade bread, you have to try Senora Ana’s pan de coco. Ana makes the delightful loaves at her home halfway between El Limon and Santa Barbara de Samaná just north of the town, Rancho Español.



Be sure to stop for Pan de Coco  made by the local baker, Ana

She usually makes thirty loaves each day – Monday through Thursday. Arrive after noon to ensure Ana has finished baking. Don’t wait too long, though, because when Ana runs out, the bakery is closed for the day.

Ana sells her bread from noon until it's gone, Monday through Thursday

Each morning, Ana gets started at 7:30am in a makeshift kitchen behind her house. She has a plywood counter where she mixes and kneads the bread and forms up the loaves. She uses about thirty pounds of flour, yeast, a little sugar and coconut for the daily quota.

The work space behind Ana's house where the bread is mixed and kneaded

She grates coconut flakes and adds coconut milk to give the bread its distinctive light coconut flavor. It’s not overpowering but it’s that special touch than makes the bread so special.

Ana demonstrates the process of grating the coconut for her baking

Ana has an amazing “bakery.” She has disassembled four full-sized gas ovens to retrofit them as charcoal-fired ovens. She has one tray lined with several layers of aluminum foil in each oven that she loads with the loaves. Then, she piles charcoal on the ground underneath the ovens where the broiler drawer would be and fires them up.

The charcoal fueled ovens where the Pan de Coco bakes

The secret, she says it the yeast strain she uses. She and her neighbors call it “Royal.” It lends a unique texture and flavor to the bread. We’ve found the dense white bread with a crunchy toasted crust is great for toast, bruschetta, even croutons!

Two loaves of Pan de Coco - made in Espanol Royal, Dominican Republic

The process of mixing, kneading and baking the bread takes about four hours and by noon, she’s done with the baking for the day. Then, she sets up shop with her door open and a table with other sweets out front.

The ovens have been retrofit for several loaves to bake on one rack

Stop by if you are in the area. The loaves are RD$50 and will be fresh and moist for up to four days. After the fourth day, Ana recommends toasting the bread if there is any left. I’ve also found the bread freezes very well so stock up! It’s made with love by a lovely baker.

La Escuela Basica across the street from Ana's house

Ana sells her bread out of her home in Rancho Español. Watch for the Brugal Ron signs marking Rancho Español. Ana’s house is across the street from the elementary school – la escuela basica.

Great Food – Pizza Dino’s

The best way to describe Pizza Dino’s setting is in the middle of it all, off the beaten path. Finding your way there, though, is worth the trouble. You’ll be treated to great wood fired pizza in a setting that surpasses most of the pizzerias in Las Terrenas. Pizza Dina doesn’t have a beach front view but it does have comfortable well-constructed furniture, a high canna roof with attractive beams to add ambience and a subtle campo theme with old saddle blankets and traditional Dominican saddles slung over the interior railings of the dining room.

Clean, unclutter interior at Pizza Dino, Las Terrenas, Dominican Republic

The pizza oven is situated at the back of the restaurant – open kitchen style with the bar next to it. Choose a table further back if you want to avoid the street noise. Move further up if you want to watch the evening activities unfold in the neighborhood.

The bar is stocked with the usual Las Terrenas offerings – beer, red and white wine and a variety of liquor. Both the beer and the red wine were served cold but it doesn’t take long for the red wine to achieve a drinkable temperature on a warm Caribbean evening.

Your choices for food are pizza or pizza but the menu has variety of interesting common and uncommon options. I have become a fan of corn on my pizza – a common Dominican topping given their propensity for starches. I chose the Pizza Dominicana with corn, shrimp, green peppers and cheese with a tomato sauce for my dinner.

My husband went for a more traditional Italian offering of anchovies on tomato sauce with garlic and cheese. We both were impressed by the thin, crispy crust and the flavorful toppings. Best of all, the pizzas are big enough that we both had left-overs for lunch the next day.

Our tab came to just over RD$900 with two pizzas, two beers and two glasses of wine. My husband mentioned that on his last visit the group had convinced the chef to make appetizers of toasted bread sticks with cheese even though it’s not on the menu. If you get creative, you might even convince them to make a dessert pizza for something sweet at the end of your meal.

Located next to Hotel Elgancia - take a right from Calle Duarte at Alex's Barbershop

Pizza Dino is located in downtown Las Terranas. Take a right on the second street past Lindo supermarket. Pizza Dino is halfway down the block on your left next to Hotel Elegancia.

Pizzeria Dino is distinctive with it's canna roof and mural

Great Beaches - Playa Anadel – Santa Barbara de Samaná

If you want to go to the beach in Santa Barbara de Samaná, you might think your only option is to head to Las Galeras. In actuality, you have a couple of options close by Samaná Bay that will be easier if you don’t have the time or money to spend to get to Las Galeras or Playa Rincon.

Playa Anadel, Santa Barbara de Samana, Dominican Republic

Playa Anadel is an easy beach to access. If you have a car, it’s a five minute drive on the road that heads east and then north over the hill beyond Samaná Bay. If you don’t have a car, you can catch a cab or motoconchos to the beach. It’s a short ride either way to the small road that is marked with a Brugal Rum sign “Playa Anadel.” 

There are entrances at either end of the beach but the first entrance is better if you are driving because there is space to park your vehicle at the end of the drive. We were greeted by a “security man” who would be guarding our car for us. At the end of the day,we paid him RD$50 for his services despite the fact that we could personally keep an eye on our car from our beach chairs.

You can park close to all the action on Playa Anadel

We rented two beach chairs for RD$100 each and got a small end table and umbrella along with the price of the chairs. Our spot on the beach was provided by a young man who assured us he would provide whatever services we needed including drinks and fresh seafood if we want lunch.

You can rent beach chairs and umbrellas at Playa Anadel, Dominican Republic

The beach is shorter than those in Las Terrenas, bounded on both ends by cliffs. Heading into the water, the slope is gradual and you can wade out into the surf a reasonable distance before you begin to tread water. The waves are gentle and you can swim at Playa Anadel along the beach without much effort. Some small motorboats zipped by close to shore while we were in the surf so be watchful of traffic in the water.

The second entrance to Playa Anadel is beyond the green umbrellas

The crowd at the beach on Sunday appeared to be passengers from the large Norwegian Cruiselines ship anchored in Samaná Bay. They arrived in groups of four or six - American, German and French tourists ready for sun and fun on the beach. They were immediately set upon by locals with offers of cigars, jewelry, massages and hair-braiding. Our friend at the restaurant was quick to deliver drinks in tropical containers – pineapples for the piña coladas and coconut for coco locos – coconut milk spiked with rum.

Vendors on the beach serve all types of Dominican drinks, snacks and fresh seafood on Playa Anadel

We had brought our own drinks in a cooler but that wasn’t a problem for our hosts. We added to their coffers by ordering lunch of whole red snappers, ensalade verde (cabbage with tomatoes and cucumbers) tostones (fried, mashed plantains), rice and habituale (soupy red beans that accompany most Dominican meals).

Too late, I requested the red snapper be prepared “a la plancha” or grilled. Instead, they served up whole fried fish – one for each of us. The fish was not breaded though, so the “fried” quotient wasn’t so bad. The meat was moist and tender once I managed to separate it from the bones and other fish parts.

There are plenty of tables where you can eat a meal at Playa Anadel

Our lunches were a little expensive for the quality – RD$350 apiece. I chalk this up to the heavy cruise ship traffic. I’ve become accustomed to RD$100 plato del dia so this was a little underwhelming. The view, though, was spectacular looking out at Caya Levantado. We also had a view of the Norwegian Cruise Lines ship and could watch the tenders shuttling their passengers back and forth from the ship to shore.

Norwegian Cruise Lines ship anchored in Samana Bay

Playa Anadel isn’t the most spectacular beach on the peninsula but it certainly is convenient and everyone was very hospitable. It’s a great choice if you only have an afternoon to spare at the beach while you are in Santa Barbara de Samaná.